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KratosLives said:
Conina said:

Theoretical max. Wifi 6 bandwidth is 9.6 Gb/s, in reality probably even less (especially if other Wifi devices are in the same room). Could work for wireless VR, but wouldn't leave much room for a resolution bump for PSVR2.

If the io throughput speeds is 9 gb/s, how does the bandwidth being roughtly the same affect things?

As I wrote, you will probably get less than 9.6 Gbps in most rooms due to interferences of other WiFi devices.

I'm sure if Sony wants a wireless VR solution via WiFi 6, they want it to run flawlessly for the majority of PSVR users... so they won't expect 9 Gbps or even 8 Gbps, probably more in the 6 - 7 Gbps area to be on the safe site. And to avoid latency issues, sending an uncompressed video to the headset would be preferable.

For PSVR1 games that would be fine, since an uncompressed 1920x1080 video with 8-bit per color + 120 Hz only needs 6 Gb/s. Even a HDR 1920x1080 video with 10-bit per color + 120 Hz could still work in some rooms (but could already problematic in other rooms:

It would be nice if Sony maxed out PSVR1 games on PS5. Some of them are sub-1080p on PS4 Pro and most of them are under 120 Hz. With additional rendering in higher resolutions and then downsampling to 1920x1080 (this resolution scaling is already supported by SteamVR and improves the image quality) the improvements could be huge, even with a PSVR1 connected to the PS5.

But what improvements would PSVR2 have over PSVR1 on PS5? Obviously a panel with higher resolution would be the biggest improvement for the image quality... This would also allow a bigger field of view without a worse pixel density. And I hope that Sony stays at 120 Hz and adds HDR 10-bit for VR games.

Depending on the resolution bump of the headset-panel WiFi 6 wouldn't be fast enough in most cases:

So if a cable means much better image quality compared to wireless compromises, I stay wired.



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Cerebralbore101 said:
iron_megalith said:

That thing is a BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOY.

What surprised me more is their ballsy move of using Liquid Metal A lot of things can go wrong with the application.. Although they're not the first manufacturer to ship units with LM, but this is a very welcoming change. Now it makes more sense as to why people were saying the system was super quiet. Better TIM means and a capable cooling solution should mean it doesn't need to ramp up the fans too much.

Also that foam barrier is a page taken out of the laptop overclockers. I was planning to do this on an Alienware 17 R5 2 years ago but it was difficult to find a good foam to use since you can't have it too porous otherwise the potential LM beads will slip through and short your board. You also can't have it to stiff otherwise it will push up the IHS and shit mounting pressure will screw your setup.

Now if they use a good quality Nickel plated IHS and the procedures of application is very good, this thing will last the console's lifetime. If Sony succeeds, here's hoping more manufacturers make this a standard and portal devices like gaming phones and the Nintento Switch follow suit. The latter is a pipe dream since portable devices have inconsistent mounting pressures and gets jostled around too much which could cause failure.

Wait, are you saying that the PS5 has some sort of liquid beads that can potentially slip through foam and brick it? That sounds like a nightmare for longevity. All I want is a gaming system that is reliable, and that I can fix myself. That's why I'm going PC this upcoming gen.

That's the thing with Liquid Metal. It acts kinda like a liquid. That's why for laptop overclockers who want to really do LM on their laptops, they have to contain any potential spills by applying a electrical tape barrier or a foam barrier. For PS5, there's only going to be a small percentage of users that will be moving this around. It's not a portable laptop. And even if they do, it seems that Sony created barrier around it. Only time will tell if it was designed well but that can be a potential point of failure if not handled properly. Spills happening in a properly applied LM is very small.

Last edited by iron_megalith - on 17 October 2020

Conina said:
KratosLives said:

If the io throughput speeds is 9 gb/s, how does the bandwidth being roughtly the same affect things?

As I wrote, you will probably get less than 9.6 Gbps in most rooms due to interferences of other WiFi devices.

I'm sure if Sony wants a wireless VR solution via WiFi 6, they want it to run flawlessly for the majority of PSVR users... so they won't expect 9 Gbps or even 8 Gbps, probably more in the 6 - 7 Gbps area to be on the safe site. And to avoid latency issues, sending an uncompressed video to the headset would be preferable.

For PSVR1 games that would be fine, since an uncompressed 1920x1080 video with 8-bit per color + 120 Hz only needs 6 Gb/s. Even a HDR 1920x1080 video with 10-bit per color + 120 Hz could still work in some rooms (but could already problematic in other rooms:

It would be nice if Sony maxed out PSVR1 games on PS5. Some of them are sub-1080p on PS4 Pro and most of them are under 120 Hz. With additional rendering in higher resolutions and then downsampling to 1920x1080 (this resolution scaling is already supported by SteamVR and improves the image quality) the improvements could be huge, even with a PSVR1 connected to the PS5.

But what improvements would PSVR2 have over PSVR1 on PS5? Obviously a panel with higher resolution would be the biggest improvement for the image quality... This would also allow a bigger field of view without a worse pixel density. And I hope that Sony stays at 120 Hz and adds HDR 10-bit for VR games.

Depending on the resolution bump of the headset-panel WiFi 6 wouldn't be fast enough in most cases:

So if a cable means much better image quality compared to wireless compromises, I stay wired.

If Sony allow PSVR2 to be used wired for maximum performance and on battery with degraded one I certainly would prefer to be on the first, but would be good to have options anyway.



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I wonder if they could use multiple I/O channels, if they are outputting separate streams for each eye anyways?
That could use the USB connections while leaving WiFi free (or possibly just for tracking info, video being on 1-way channels)



Cerebralbore101 said:
ArchangelMadzz said:
As someone who literally just tore down their PS4, like a full 100% teardown cleaned the dust and replaced the thermal paste with MX4.

I can't put into words how big of a step up in literally every department the construction of this thing is. Huge.

No more tiny blower fan.
No more tiny heatsink.
No bare, loud disk drive.
My PS4's paste was basically all gone, LIQUID METAL is crazy.

10/10 guys. really.

One thing that really pissed me off about the PS4 is how it overheated on me and died 3 separate times. Initially, I thought it was just because my roommate stored it in an area with poor ventilation. But he proved that wasn't the case. Not being able to do such a simple task as replace the thermal paste on my PS4 really killed it for me. The PS5 build looks like it's a little easier to take apart and put back together.

Anyway, how exactly did you manage to replace the thermal paste? I recently attempted a teardown of my brother's PS4 Slim, and found I would have needed to grind some bolts away just to get at the motherboard. It's at that point that I gave up.

I have the normal launch PS4. And You just need a phillips head and a T8 Torx screwdriver. Just remove the top 3 back Torx and the bottom Torx, slide off the hard drive and remove every screw you see. 

And just keep removing stuff until you get to the motherboard and flip it around to find the SoC, and you'll see 'probably' some dried out thermal paste that's barely even there anymore, and re-apply and do everything in reverse.



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ArchangelMadzz said:
Cerebralbore101 said:

One thing that really pissed me off about the PS4 is how it overheated on me and died 3 separate times. Initially, I thought it was just because my roommate stored it in an area with poor ventilation. But he proved that wasn't the case. Not being able to do such a simple task as replace the thermal paste on my PS4 really killed it for me. The PS5 build looks like it's a little easier to take apart and put back together.

Anyway, how exactly did you manage to replace the thermal paste? I recently attempted a teardown of my brother's PS4 Slim, and found I would have needed to grind some bolts away just to get at the motherboard. It's at that point that I gave up.

I have the normal launch PS4. And You just need a phillips head and a T8 Torx screwdriver. Just remove the top 3 back Torx and the bottom Torx, slide off the hard drive and remove every screw you see. 

And just keep removing stuff until you get to the motherboard and flip it around to find the SoC, and you'll see 'probably' some dried out thermal paste that's barely even there anymore, and re-apply and do everything in reverse.

alot of people bring up the thermal paste but the majority of cases it's the heat sink that's the problem. Make sure you check the heat sink for dust build up. Because i had replaced my thermal paste and issue wasn;t resolved till i vacuumed it all out. Mine went from sounding like a plane taking off, to a sleeping baby. 

Last edited by KratosLives - on 16 October 2020

hinch said:
DonFerrari said:

And that doesn't count the hundreds of reposts for other languages and discussions.

Yeah the hype is real. Still trending 7th in youtube after a day. Coming off such a strong last few years of games people are just pumped to see a new PlayStation.

KratosLives said:
What's with these so called heating/noise issues?? My launch ps4 is quiet. Or was it a ps4 pro problem?

I have a early PS4 and mine can get quite noisy. Especially in demanding games like The Last of Us 2.

do you want a link on how to clean the heat sink from dust? tlou2 will be quit to play on like mine. 



KratosLives said:
ArchangelMadzz said:

I have the normal launch PS4. And You just need a phillips head and a T8 Torx screwdriver. Just remove the top 3 back Torx and the bottom Torx, slide off the hard drive and remove every screw you see. 

And just keep removing stuff until you get to the motherboard and flip it around to find the SoC, and you'll see 'probably' some dried out thermal paste that's barely even there anymore, and re-apply and do everything in reverse.

alot of people bring up the thermal paste but the majority of cases it's the heat sink that's the problem. Make sure you check the heat sink for dust build up. Because i had replaced my thermal paste and issue wasn;t resolved till i vacuumed it all out.

I don't know of any somewhat recent console over the last couple gens that requires anything other than pulling off stickers, popping plastic apart, or unscrewing. If you're doing something else, you're missing something.

My 1200 PS4, was extremely clean inside, and new MX-4 thermal paste only helped a little bit. I honestly think the problem is the contact between the APU and heatsink. I've recently seen a vid where a modder shows how convex their PS4 Pro APU is, which leads to only a small amount of heatsink contact in the very center of the APU. The paste can only do so much and requires fairly snug contact across the entire chip to be efficient. I never looked that close at the time, but I can't think of anything else other than possibly a poorly binned chip that unfortunately runs hotter, and there's little you could do about that.

What I eventually did was purchase a fan (accelerator) adjuster, which easily plugs into the fan and mobo, where I can set the speed at which I want the fan to run most of the time. My PS4 fan now runs around 40% of it's total RPM the overwhelming majority of the time, and only when the system get's quite hot, does the fan adjuster allow the PS4 to take over and ramp the fan up even more so (50% ish) for a short period to bring the temp back down. Once the temp drops enough, the fan adjuster takes over again and keeps the fan at 40%. It's more noisy than letting it run at stock 20% or 30%, but the 40% RPM consistency makes it much more palatable while remaining reasonably quiet. Once you get over 50% it starts to get annoying, and more so as you go up beyond that.

Since the PS5 has a surround barrier designed to hold in the liquid metal, a little pool of it should help alleviate any convex or concave chip or heatsink issues, while still having great thermal transfer efficiency. As long as it works as intended and keeps the liquid metal safely inside, which based on it's conductive properties and multiple years of design and testing, SNY would be crazy to use it if they weren't sure it was foolproof.



ArchangelMadzz said:
Cerebralbore101 said:

One thing that really pissed me off about the PS4 is how it overheated on me and died 3 separate times. Initially, I thought it was just because my roommate stored it in an area with poor ventilation. But he proved that wasn't the case. Not being able to do such a simple task as replace the thermal paste on my PS4 really killed it for me. The PS5 build looks like it's a little easier to take apart and put back together.

Anyway, how exactly did you manage to replace the thermal paste? I recently attempted a teardown of my brother's PS4 Slim, and found I would have needed to grind some bolts away just to get at the motherboard. It's at that point that I gave up.

I have the normal launch PS4. And You just need a phillips head and a T8 Torx screwdriver. Just remove the top 3 back Torx and the bottom Torx, slide off the hard drive and remove every screw you see. 

And just keep removing stuff until you get to the motherboard and flip it around to find the SoC, and you'll see 'probably' some dried out thermal paste that's barely even there anymore, and re-apply and do everything in reverse.

Tempted to open up my PS4 and do this. I have a can of compressed air and some Thermalright TFX paste which when applied, should give much better thermals and lower noise. Only thing is, I have my PS5 coming soon so the PS4 will be relegated to a legacy console in my collection lol



EricHiggin said:
KratosLives said:

alot of people bring up the thermal paste but the majority of cases it's the heat sink that's the problem. Make sure you check the heat sink for dust build up. Because i had replaced my thermal paste and issue wasn;t resolved till i vacuumed it all out.

I don't know of any somewhat recent console over the last couple gens that requires anything other than pulling off stickers, popping plastic apart, or unscrewing. If you're doing something else, you're missing something.

My 1200 PS4, was extremely clean inside, and new MX-4 thermal paste only helped a little bit. I honestly think the problem is the contact between the APU and heatsink. I've recently seen a vid where a modder shows how convex their PS4 Pro APU is, which leads to only a small amount of heatsink contact in the very center of the APU. The paste can only do so much and requires fairly snug contact across the entire chip to be efficient. I never looked that close at the time, but I can't think of anything else other than possibly a poorly binned chip that unfortunately runs hotter, and there's little you could do about that.

What I eventually did was purchase a fan (accelerator) adjuster, which easily plugs into the fan and mobo, where I can set the speed at which I want the fan to run most of the time. My PS4 fan now runs around 40% of it's total RPM the overwhelming majority of the time, and only when the system get's quite hot, does the fan adjuster allow the PS4 to take over and ramp the fan up even more so (50% ish) for a short period to bring the temp back down. Once the temp drops enough, the fan adjuster takes over again and keeps the fan at 40%. It's more noisy than letting it run at 20% or 30%, but the 40% RPM consistency makes it much more palatable while remaining reasonably quiet. Once you get over 50% it starts to get annoying, and more so as you go up beyond that.

Since the PS5 has a surround barrier designed to hold in the liquid metal, a little pool of it should help alleviate any convex or concave chip or heatsink issues, while still having great thermal transfer efficiency. As long as it works as intended and keeps the liquid metal safely inside, which based on it's conductive properties and multiple years of design and testing, SNY would be crazy to use it if they weren't sure it was foolproof.

so you never got to your heat sink?? As for the ps5, it should be pretty cool, but we don't know how extreme the apu gets since its overclocked all the time, so all that cooling is necessary. But the chief engineer did say in an interview, that generally the ps5 runs quieter than ps4. Whether or not the fan spikes during high iintensive games, we will find out. My room is well ventialted, ps4 stays quiet, also have an ac to keep the room cool during summer. 

Last edited by KratosLives - on 16 October 2020