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Forums - Nintendo Discussion - Switch FUD tips&tricks&hacks

ThePyroPath said:
OK, here's one. I have a Xtorm AL450 powerbank. What I noticed is that the list linked in the OP states many many readings of about 5 volts, 500mA. And I can confirm the slow declining of battery percentage while playing Zelda with the powerbank attached. However, when I disconnect the cable while it's charging and then reconnect within a few moments it actually starts charging the Switch. Progress is extremely slow, like 1% each 20 or 30 minutes, but it shows this should be providing more power than it's using or in other words, it can't be 5 volts, 500mA...

I use an Anker power bank. Can't remember which but it does power up the console. At least at 75% brightness.



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d21lewis said:
ThePyroPath said:
OK, here's one. I have a Xtorm AL450 powerbank. What I noticed is that the list linked in the OP states many many readings of about 5 volts, 500mA. And I can confirm the slow declining of battery percentage while playing Zelda with the powerbank attached. However, when I disconnect the cable while it's charging and then reconnect within a few moments it actually starts charging the Switch. Progress is extremely slow, like 1% each 20 or 30 minutes, but it shows this should be providing more power than it's using or in other words, it can't be 5 volts, 500mA...

I use an Anker power bank. Can't remember which but it does power up the console. At least at 75% brightness.

OK, nice it works as intended for you and your type of memory bank. However it seems the majority of people have issues with powerbanks on the Switch where battery percentage is dropping faster than it should. For those people I suggested something to try.



ThePyroPath said:
d21lewis said:

I use an Anker power bank. Can't remember which but it does power up the console. At least at 75% brightness.

OK, nice it works as intended for you and your type of memory bank. However it seems the majority of people have issues with powerbanks on the Switch where battery percentage is dropping faster than it should. For those people I suggested something to try.

That's cool. If that doesn't work and money isn't an issue, here's the one I use: Anker PowerCore 20100 - Ultra High Capacity Power Bank with 4.8A Output, PowerIQ Technology for iPhone, iPad and Samsung Galaxy and More (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ruPAihJ9DUgUz



Tagging.



NA eShop top-up codesplay-asia [source]

Damage done to joy-con latch when ripping of the joy-con strap [source]

Video of the latch effect @ http://imgur.com/a/dqwoH

This is something we saw from that mistreated giantbomb Switch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pln9CL8eYTQ

D-pad Joy-con [source]

Ultra-Low Profile 3D Printed Charge & Play Stand [source]

3D printed grip + strap storage [source]

Actual design is from here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2170966

There are more 3D printed joy-con grips tested in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ju7r3p5tcOs

3D printed guardian stand [source]

They even painted it: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/guardian-stand-for-the-nintendo-switch-29979

TomaTito said:

Loading times comparison between cartridge, microsd and internal storage

  • Game card (top left)
  • SanDisk Extreme microSD (top right)
  • SanDisk Extreme Pro microSD (bottom left)
  • Internal storage (bottom right)

A few days later Eurogamer confirms this:
http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2017-best-microsd-cards-for-switch-loading-time-comparison

Recommends microSD card of UHS-1 standard



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Power Consumption of the Switch [source]

Someone shared this link here in VGC, it looks interesting and it's something I'll read in detail later on.

Safe way to transport the dock [source]

Bluetooth transmitter for TV mode [source]

Laser engraved Switch back [source]

DIY left joy-con repair [source]

Forgot to add this, but someone without access to warranty can still extend the antenna.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnMnke6lF0c



@Twitter | Switch | Steam

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Man that guy's tests makes me feel a lot safer about the Switch screen... thing is damn near impossible to scratch.

I'll still put mine in gingerly, but for now I'll take off that darn protector that I totally botched lol



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Oneeee-Chan!!! said:

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Saw you trying to post a youtube or image or something... need help?

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Been a few days busy, but finally made time to update the thread with the latest TTHs.

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Conductive foam fixes the left Joy-Con desync problem [source]

Images from http://www.nintendolife.com/news/2017/03/nintendo_fixes_the_left_joy-con_problem_with_a_small_piece_of_foam

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Joy-Con LED change mod [source]

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Is 2.4A output the spec to look for in a portable battery to charge faster than the discharge?
https://www.reddit.com/r/NintendoSwitch/comments/60elka/q_is_24a_output_the_spec_to_look_for_in_a/

I have a write-up that I'm working on to hopefully clarify a bunch of this, but it is slow going and unfortunately there are a bunch of edge cases and exceptions that don't make talking about this easy.

The bottom line is that if you use a Type A charger, regardless of what's on the label, on 90+% of the chargers you might use, the Switch will only draw 5V 1.5A or 7.5 watts.

7.5 watts is right at the threshold where in full brightness, full volume, wifi on, I can reliably get the Switch to drop about 1% every 11 or so minutes. Under the same circumstances, I can also get the battery to hold the line. It is scene dependent. If you drop the brightness and other factors, you increase the likelihood of either holding the line or even slowly charging while playing. This is where the confusion comes in-many people reporting on their Type A chargers are testing it at all kinds of settings, and whether the charger will charge or not is not binary. There aren't "good" or "bad" Type A chargers, they are all largely the same (delivering 7.5 watts) and the variation in results is the result of a spectrum dependent on the gaming scenario.

Anyway, if you want to reliably charge the Switch while playing, it is kinda simple--pick a charger that uses a USB C-C cable. If it's C-C on both ends, worst case scenario, you are sending 5V 2A. If your charger has USB PD, you might send more, but you'll at the very least send 10 watts.

Use a Type A charger if that's what you have; it will work, not harm your Switch, and in most cases, will charge your Switch slowly. But if you're looking to spend money on a new charger, there's no reason not to choose Type C.

And apparently this battery charger is good enough: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EA1P8OI

https://www.reddit.com/r/NintendoSwitch/comments/60j3m8/proof_my_22_battery_charges_the_switch_while/

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USB3 ethernet adapters:

The Amazon Basics USB3 to Ethernet adapter works on the Switch [source]

Ethernet Internal Dock mod [source]

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And some more 3D printed stuff:

Mario pipes store your Joy-Cons [source]

Joy-con stands [source]

Blunty also checked them out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsus63Wb1FY



@Twitter | Switch | Steam

You say tomato, I say tomato 

"¡Viva la Ñ!"