I've heard that around 20 hours in the characters and story begin to get interesting but that's bullshit. I shouldn't have to sit through 20 hours of bad to get to the good.
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This is bullshit. By hour 10 you've robbed a palace, seen a Judge, escaped from a dungeon, and visited a floating city in the sky. The intro is slow going, but it's no more than 5 hours of playtime.
Most of the characters have little to no reason to be there. The main kid (whose name escapes me at the moment) has no reason what-so-ever to be there and is there only to annoy you.
Vaan barely talks once you leave Rabanastre.
Balthier and Fran are there for, well, fuck if I know. They were bored?
They're treasure hunters. Most of the first part of the game is visiting various ancient, treasure-filled tombs. Balthier and Fran are also fucking awesome.
Ashe and her buddy knight guy have a reason, but Ashe is a giant bitch and I have no reason to like her. The story is just a mess and I stopped caring long before I quit the game.
The story is great until the very end. It's just not about characters whining about their feelings like most modern FFs. More similar to VI and Tactics in that respect.