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I'm in the same boat as you. Stopped after gen 3, heard about gen 1 starters with mega evolutions and liked the fire starter and the 3D graphics so I gave it another shot. Thought it was great, second most played game after Fire Emblem. You and I have similar tastes, sir...

I also agree that the HM thing is stupid. However, I do like using your Pokemon to do things outside of battle, because it makes them feel more important, like the partnership between human and Pokemon goes beyond battling. So I think instead they should just make it so that any Pokemon that can learn an HM automatically knows it, but you can only use them outside of battle, and only if you have enough badges. That way, you still get to unlock the moves, you don't take up move slots, they just act as abilities instead, and it makes getting more badges satisfying because really, how often do you use traded Pokemon and have them disobey you? Never. And come on, if a Pokemon with wings is able to carry you around, why do you have to teach it a move to let it do that? It should be a matter of it being willing to carry you around. They could put a restriction based on number of badges, but also one on friendship, making friendship more rewarding as well. It would allow them to put a much greater variety of HM abilities without worrying about forcing the player to give up too many Pokemon moves.