I'm absolutely loving it, at chapter 3 and about 40% in now. There are some pretty annoying logical flaws in the bounty system, like others have reported. For instance, if someone is giving you lip and you antagonize them and they attack you physically, you can and often will get a bounty for assault despite not having started the conflict.
The bounties you can claim yourself are absurdly poorly paid, I think I've gotten 50$ max for one, which is a joke when I have about 3000$ myself.
I haven't had that many issues with the controls, on horseback it kinda makes sense, you horse becomes less and less lumbering and unpredictable as it levels up. My white Arabian is now finally at level 4 bonding and can maneuver like an acrobat, even crashing through dense forest and brush.
Exploring and emergent gameplay is the best in this game, I recently happened upon a house with four highwaymen drinking and jesting. I sat and listened as one grew increasingly angry at his mates, and as their argument escalated, I kicked in the door, shotgun in hand, and opened up on them. One was left standing, unarmed, he revealed where his stash was and I let him leave. Payday and honor gained, perfect!
The setting and characters are awesome, I feel so invested in it all, this effect is only further underlined by the slow and deliberate pacing and actions. I've never cared about visual upgrades or cosmetics is any game, but I find myself trimming Arthur's beard to style, dressing him up and wearing the coolest boots, braiding my horse's tail and mane and even customizing my guns to all look a certain way (black steel overlaid with semi-dark wooden finishing). Dialogue, music, acting, immersion. Easily among my top ten games ever, all in all. It has its issues, but they are far overshadowed by its strengths.
