As grueling as that sounds, FFXI is probably the best MMO out there. Not everything is an 18 hour boss fight (I believe there are only two like that and neither at all necessary).
I think people hate it because it's so unforgiving: if one person fucks up you're entire party or alliance is screwed. That's why it's awesome, it's not the kiddy easy crap like WoW where I can make it to level 60 in a week.
-edit-
Holy shit! I just noticed that thing uses Astral Flow and it has like 20 avatars. That's insane considering just one of those can kill a group.








