I enjoyed the game for 170 hours according to the Switch, but you're right the 4 divine beasts were largely forgettable. And I only remember one boss, Thunderblight Ganon as he was a pita due to camera issues.
Exploring the land was great, it didn't feel too much like Zelda though. A lot of shrines felt like padding yet there were also plenty good ones. Atcually I enjoyed exploring the 3 mazes the most, throughout the game I missed underground dungeons and those came closest to that feeling. Hyrule castle was great to explore as well, too bad it was only one and when I came back to it at the end to finish the game it was trivially easy to run to the top.
The game is best when you simply set out in one direction and see what you'll find. Don't unlock the towers, enjoy discovering things at your own pace. I never used fast travel, hence the long play time, and wouldn't want to either. I'll get to the quests whenever I eventually circle back to that town. Instead of having memories of dungeons and great boss fights, I have memories of an epic uninterrupted journey exploring the land and trying to survive almost freezing to death crossing the mountains with only a few pieces of frost resistance food left. Jumped off that mountain on the other side just in time.