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I'm in chapter 8, 30 hours of playthrough, and now I find myself enjoying the combat. I don't really know anything about the story yet, and I haven't reached that linear bit. Still, I think I'll probably enjoy more the linear part because, despite what people generally say, I still don't see the point of having such a vast world in this game. I think it might have been more little, so the hunts and side quest would have flown better. Lots of time wasted driving and riding. Which, tbh, strike me as odd in the vast majority of open world AAA games. They feel pointless.