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Or maybe we just stop giving undue attention to rewiews and meta scores and start treating them as what they are: a subjective critical examintation of media.

Best thing you can do is find a reviewer who's point of view you usually share or consistently disagree with and use their reviews as a starting point to figure out if a game is for you or not.

Reviews of art, by their very nature can never be completely neutral. Art is subjective. A 'neutral' game review would be something nonesensical along the lines of:'It has controls, it also has graphics, there is a 2D/3D camera' etc.
And if you want a neutral rundown of the technical aspect digital foundry's got you covered.

Of course if you're that obsessed with metascores you could always eleminate the highest and lowest scores.