captain carot said:
True 100/120Hz or 200/240Hz displays have a shorter reaction time. You wont benefit directly from that in terms of input lag, but it can be helpful in some ways in ters of picture quality. Black Frame Insertion, basically blinking or scanning backlights help to reduce stutter/motion errors of hold type displays.
Problem is that companies started to calculate in a ridiculous way, combining BFI, frame interpolation and refresh rate to get higher and higher numbers.
Frame interpolation (which is calculating frames between frames) is what smoothes motions, leading to the 'soap effect' if it's to much/to harsh. It definetely isn't a thing for game mode though because your tv will need to 'know' some frames to calculate the new frames>laaaag.
So there's BFI left. That's basically a standard today.
Now for panels and brands: Not every brand actually manufactures panels today. Sony buys panels. Toshiba buys panels. Panasonic buys panels. And yes, they also buy taiwanese and chinese panels. Hell, some of those brands have been improving a lot over the last years. So what's the issue?
1. Super cheap tv's often have more pixel errors. Really sucks with always on (sub-) pixels. One small red dot can piss you of. Two or three? dead pixels aren't that bad though. You often wont see them at all. 2. Calibration, especially color calibration. You want a greenish yellow? Purple and pink instead of red? That's what you get with to much blue for example. Even brand tv's aren't perfectly precalibrated. But they usually give you way better options for calibration. 3. Backlight quality. Even some not so cheap brand tv's have backlight issues. The really cheap ones often have way more. There are some good, cheap brand tv's with few to no issues. My parents bought an entry level Toshiba some years ago with no clouding or dirty screen effect. 4. Reliability. It's always an issue. But really cheap might also mean things like the LED's for the backlight are cheaper with a shorter lifespan. |
That makes sense. Those are interesting sidenotes for "what matters 'n' why". Clears things quite a lot. If I see dead pixels, poor calibration, or poor backlight I will return it. Might just need a protection plan. I have to ask, where did you learn all of this? and which tv is better or do you recommend another? I don't use 4K and don't plan to. So my gut tells me "get the 58".