I wouldn't worry about the population. I don't know what the numbers are anymore, but I'm sure there are at least a few hundred thousand people still playing (peak was about 600k). Those are spread across 30+ servers, so if numbers ever start to slip on some or all of them they can merge servers to regain any population they want on a world.
There isn't too much of a learning curve to worry about either. You start out slow on your own and gradually move into parties, which then grow more complex. Since everything in the game is done with other people, there'll always be someone to guide you along.
As for whether it's worth it, I'd say it was one of the greatest gaming experiences I've ever had. I suppose things might be different for someone starting today and jumping into the midst of thousands of experienced players and an established world, but I'll bet most of the sense of wonder is still there to find. Even though I loved it from the start, the game is definitely much improved over what it was through hundreds of gradual tweaks and additions put in over the years.
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