Pacing, exploration and feeling of progression. I rather have a couple of hard fights instead of tons of grind filler. The pacing should be so you don't need to grind.
Getting lost and learning the layout of the land or dungeon is more fun than following a marker on the map. The best times I had was getting lost somewhere in a side dungeon in FF12, barely managing to keep up with the respawn rate trying to get past a mini boss to find the exit. Same in Dark souls. Not knowing where I ended up and slowly getting to know my way around (after numerous death) to find my way onwards.
What kills an rpg for me is endless sidequests aka todo lists, Kingdom of Amalur ugh. And forgettable dungeons, for example Skyrim. The overworld in Skyrim was great, dungeons sucked.
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