misterchoc90 on 26 June 2014
| Arkaign said: A ton of problems like this happen for two reasons, one of which we can help quite a bit. The surface of the CPU/iGPU die(s), depending on configuration, are relatively small in surface area. In order for heat to efficiently dissipate from the processors into the heatsink and be exhausted from the enclosure, you need a good thermal conductive material to conduct that heat. With mass-produced PCs/Laptops, it's impossible/impractical for them to do a very good job implementing this material choice. Often it's just a thin pad, or worse, it's just a squirt of some pathetic paste that is nearly an insulator (I've even seen GLUE used in Dells and Macbooks!). So, if the unit is out of warranty, and you have patience and some technical confidence, do this : (1)- Find a Youtube video on the disassembly/reassembly of your unit. 95% of the time laptops have the processors facing downwards, so it will require basically a full strip-down to get to where you need to be. (2)- Have a REALLY good thermal material ready. Liquid metal is one of the best, but you can also use the latest arctic products for decent improvements over OEM as well. (3)- Be sure to know how to apply the material. It does NOT take very much at all. You also want to make sure the heatsink and processor surface areas are utterly cleaned of all remnants of the OEM materials. I've seen guides on reapplying paste on console processors that are horribly, horribly incorrect. You do not have to lather the entire thing with a thick layer, that does more harm than good. Rule of thumb usually is about the size of a grain of sushi rice right in the center of most processors (like the ones you're dealing with) will compress outwards and cover the area perfectly. The die surface area is in actuality quite small unless you're dealing with very large GPUs. (note : this is specifically for traditional materials like Arctic Silver/Alumina, if you use Liquid Metal examine the guides carefully!) Reassemble, and your temps will drop substantially. I fix dozens of units up every year in this way. I take HP i7 / Radeon laptops from sounding like leaf blowers into smooth running near-silent beasts. If you want to get really into it, you can look at ways to slightly undervolt using various tools, then using furmark/etc to test stability/temps. Furmark is a good quick test to see how your work went. Test it before you do the thermal compound changeover, and test again afterwards. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10740/thr-77/Coollaboratory_Liquid_Ultra_100_Metal_Thermal_Interface_Material.html |
This. I had someone do this to my laptop. On idle it reached 80 C. And now it sits at 50 C. Doesn't go higher than 80 C when playing.
When it wasn't fixed it reached really high temperatures. But instead of shutting down, it cut it's performance considerably. When playing, for example NFSU2, I could only play about 10 minutes until the fps dropped to about 20.
EDIT: From my experience, a fan is not enough :(
