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I loved the excellent dungeon design, the improved combat, and the Twilight Realm. My only real (and minor) complaints are the somewhat empty overworld, making Kakariko village a western town (wtf), and a lack of really interesting NPCs.

It's tied with the Wind Waker as my third favorite game of all time. I felt Twilight Princess was all around a more enjoyable experience, as it never had any slow sections quite like the Wind Waker, but the Wind Waker sits better in my memory, due to the wonderful style of the game.

Edit:

Oh yeah, the bosses were pretty unoriginal too.  One of them was a giant Pirahna Plant.  Like we haven't seen that in a Nintendo game before.