The Gaming PC Building/Upgrade Thread

[Garcian Smith]

V) RAM (Memory)

1) How much RAM should I get for my PC?

A) 4 gigs is all you will need for gaming. I'd go for 2x2GB sticks to ensure that you can upgrade in the future.

2) What type of memory should I get for my system?

A) That all depends upon your motherboard. Dual-channel DDR3 is the de-facto standard, though some older or micro-ATX mobos will use DDR2.

3) Is there anything specific that I should look for in RAM?

A) Look for RAM that has a voltage of 1.65V or less. Generally that shouldn't be a problem, but you should avoid cheap-O ram with more voltage.

4) What about all of those other numbers, like speed, timing, etc.?

A) Generally, you can safely ignore them. RAM with better speed and timing ratings will offer very very slight improvements over those with worse, but usually it's not worth the extra cost.

5) RECOMMENDATIONS

4 GB (2x 2GB) DDR3 memory from this list, whichever is cheapest (for most modern mobos)

4 GB (2x 2GB) DDR2-1066 memory from this list, whichever is cheapest (for certain older or Micro-ATX mobos)

4 GB (2x 2GB) DDR2-800 memory from this list, whichever is cheapest (for certain older or Micro-ATX mobos)

 

VI) Hard Drive

1) How much hard drive space do I need?

A) Again, only as much as you need. If you'd like to store a bunch of music/movies on your HDD, then go for 1TB or more. If you just plan to install some games, then a 500GB or 640GB one should be fine.

2) What should I look for in a good hard drive?

A) Your ideal hard drive should run at 7200 RPMs, have at least a 16MB cache, and be from either Samsung or Western Digital. 5400 RPM drives will have long boot times, and 10,000 RPM drives just aren't worth the money unless you're specifically running something that needs them. You may also want to consider drives that have only one or two platters, since 3-4 platter drives will generally be slower.

3) What about Solid State Drives (SSDs)?

A) SSDs are a nice, optional little accessory that can greatly reduce boot times or help run certain games like ArmA II that heavily stream data from the HDD. Buy one if you can afford it, but don't worry about it if you can't. 

4) Should I use a RAID array for backup?

A) Generally, no. Let me put this in caps so that those of you scrolling by will read it: RAID 0 AND RAID 1 ARE NOT BACKUP SOLUTIONS. DO NOT RUN EITHER WITHOUT BACKING UP YOUR DATA SOME OTHER WAY. The only reliable RAID array for backup is RAID 10, but that requires 4 speedy drives (think WD Caviar Blacks or Samsung Spinpoint F3s) and that can get really expensive. If you're looking for a backup solution for your sensitive data, a simple USB Flash drive set to backup your documents folder on a weekly basis is cheap and extremely reliable.

5) RECOMMENDATIONS

Samsung Spinpoint F3 500GB: A fast, inexpensive boot drive. The absolute best value for your money as far as HDDs go.

Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB: A good, if slightly slower alternative to the Spinpoint F3 if the latter is out of stock.

Samsung Spinpoint F3 1GB: A bigger Spinpoint for those who need more storage space.

Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB: Again, a slightly pricier (but this time just as fast) option if you can't find the Spinpoint.

Samsung EcoGreen F2 1.5TB: A more reliable alternative to Western Digital's Caviar Green line for bulk storage. DO NOT use this as a boot drive.

Intel X25-V: The most reliable SSD out there. 40 GB should be plenty of space for Windows plus whatever other apps you need to boot quickly.

 

VII) Optical Drive

1) What should I look for in a DVD drive?

A) Most DVD drives these days are created equal, though ones made by Lite-On, Samsung, or Sony have somewhat better reliability than others. Also make sure that your DVD burner can write to both DVD+R and DVD-R discs; most of them can, but a few can't.

2) How about Blu-Ray drives?

A) Again, look for one manufactured by the Big Three: Lite-On, Samsung, and Sony. (At least one poster has also recommended LG drives, so take that into account as well.) Also, make sure that it's rated at least an 8x BD-ROM speed. Finally, make sure that it can play "vanilla" CDs and DVDs if you don't have a dedicated DVD drive already.

3) RECOMMENDATIONS

DVD Burners: Any recommended brand from this list.

Blu-Ray Drives: Any recommended brand from this list.

 

VIII) Power Supplies

1) What wattage do I need from my PSU?

A) Most first-time builders make the mistake of choosing a wattage that's way too high. In fact, wattage is one of the least important aspects of a good PSU. Unless you're running some crazy Core-i7/dual-Radeon 5850 setup, a 450 or 500W PSU will be more than enough.

2) Okay then. If not wattage, then what should I look for?

A) First and foremost, look at the warranty. The best PSU manufacturers will have at least a 5-year warranty on their products because they know that they're selling a quality product. Corsair and SeaSonic are two good ol' standbys who always offer such a warranty.

Second, look at the +12V rails. A good PSU will supply at least 30 amps across all of the +12V rails totaled together. In addition, the best PSUs for gaming rigs will often have just a single +12V rail - this eliminates the need to balance your components across multiple rails, and allows for more room in upgrading your graphics card in the future.

Finally, check to see if your PSU is modular. Modular PSUs allow you to only use the wires that you need, making them better for first-time builders who might not know how to properly orient the cables in their case. A non-modular PSU plus an inexperienced builder all too often equals a tangled rat's nest of power cables that could obstruct your case's airflow. Don't worry if your PSU isn't modular, though, as it isn't a requirement; it's just a nice little bonus.

3) RECOMMENDATIONS

Corsair 450VX: This will reliably power any basic and mid-range gaming PC.

SeaSonic SS-500ET: A nice alternative to the 450VX. Buy whichever is cheaper.

Corsair 550VX: For builds with higher-end CPUs/GPUs (Core-i5/Radeon 5850) and/or basic-to-moderate overclockers.

SeaSonic SS-550HT: A perfect alternative to the 550VX. Again, buy whichever is cheaper.

Corsair 650TX: For heavy overclockers. If you have to ask whether you need a PSU this powerful, then you probably don't.

 

IX) Operating System

1) Which version of Windows 7 should I get?

A) Generally, Home Premium if you don't plan on using XP Mode, and Professional if you do. XP Mode is useful for getting some older games to work, but Professional does cost a bit more. Also, look for OEM versions of Windows 7. They're much less expensive than the "full versions" and really don't offer any drawbacks to a system builder.

2) 32 or 64-bit?

A) The x64 standard has reached a point where there's really no reason not to get the 64-bit version of Windows. Most games don't yet support 64-bit instruction sets, but 99% of them will run just fine out of the box on 64-bit Windows 7, and those that don't usually just need a little tweaking.

 

X) Cooling

1) I'm not planning on heavy overclocking or anything. Do I need to worry about aftermarket cooling?

A) Nope. Stock cooling (as in, the heatsink, fan, and thermal paste that come with your CPU) is perfectly fine for normal use, and can even handle mild-moderate overclocking under the right conditions. Unless you're planning on a heavy OC or worried about noise, then you can safely skip this section.

2) What should I look for in an aftermarket cooler?

A) First, check out which sockets it's compatible with. The majority of aftermarket coolers will be compatible with every modern mainstream socket (usually LGA775, AM2+, AM3, and LGA1156), but some might not be.

Second, take a look at the fan. A good CPU cooling fan will be at least 92mm in size. Anything smaller and it'll probably spin fast enough to create an undesirable amount of ambient noise.

Third, once you've settled on one, do a Google search for reviews. More than any other part, you really won't know what you're getting with an aftermarket cooler in terms of performance until you check it out for yourself. A good aftermarket cooler should reduce your CPU idle temps a bit and load temps by a significant amount (at least 5 degrees C).

Finally, check out the price. Anything more than $50 or so is probably a rip-off for the average overclocker.

3) How about thermal paste?

A) Look for something non-conductive, usually ceramic-based. Conductive thermal compounds run a risk of frying your motherboard if you apply them incorrectly. As for brands, anything from Arctic Silver works wonderfully.

4) I need one or more new fans for my case. What should I look for?

A) Look for 120mm case fans from a trusted brand. I like to recommend fans from Antec, Cooler Master, and Scythe specifically, since those companies have a proven track record of providing quiet fans at a reasonable price.

5) I'm interested in water cooling. What would you recommend for that?

A) Don't use water cooling. It's horribly expensive and doesn't offer much of an advantage over air for the premium that you're paying. Just grab a nice aftermarket air cooler.

6) RECOMMENDATIONS

Cooler Master Hyper 212: The basic "I want something better than stock cooling" aftermarket cooler. Keeps your CPU frosty and includes a nice quiet 120mm fan, and comes at a really reasonable price.

Sunbeam CR-CCTF: An alternative to the Hyper 212 that doesn't require you to mount a backplate on your mobo. Ideal for those with already-built systems who want to install a cooler without dismantling their entire system.

Xigmatek "Dark Knight": A more hefty cooler than the above, but at a higher price. Make sure you have plenty of room in your case.

Scythe "Big Shuriken" SCBSK-1000: A decent, low-clearance cooling solution for those with smaller cases.

Arctic Silver AA-1.75G: The best non-conductive thermal compound on the market, and at a bargain price.

Arctic Silver 5: Thermal paste that's a step up from the AA-1.75G, but more expensive and conductive. For advanced builders only.

Scythe "Ultra Kaze": The best 120mm case fan on the market.

Antec 761345-75120-9: Another excellent 120mm case fan. Buy whichever's cheaper.

 

XI) Misc. Parts

1) Do I need a dedicated sound card?

A) Not at all. Integrated audio technology is much better than integrated graphics. The built-in audio in most decent mobos (including the two I linked above) will provide sound quality akin to a mid-range discrete sound card from 4-5 years ago, plus probably support digital audio output via TOSLINK and HDMI. That said, if you're an absolute stickler for sound and you can fit it into your budget, a discrete sound card isn't a bad buy, but otherwise you probably won't even notice its absence.

2) What should I get in the way of ethernet cards?

A) Integrated wired ethernet, like integrated sound, works just fine on any decent mobo. As for wireless ethernet, any Windows 7-compliant PCI or PCI-E X1 card will do you. This one is inexpensive and works perfectly on Win 7.

3) How about TV tuners?

A) Hauppauge generally has the best offerings. I recommend the WinTV-HVR-2250, as it supports Windows 7, takes up that PCI-E x1 slot on your mobo that nothing else ever uses, and features just about anything you could ever want out of such a card.

4) Is there anything nifty that I can use my spare 3.5" drive bays for? Floppy drives are so passe.

A) Grab a multimedia card reader. They're only ten bucks each and most also sport an additional front USB port.