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Civilization 4. Tons of replay plus the mod "Fall for Heaven 2" is almost a completely different game. Civ is a strategy game.

  If you are not crazy for a TBS: a game I played a lot over this past year is Mount & Blade. It's action/RPG/"open end" game in Medieval times (but no magic just  steel and arrows)  that has a lot replay value including user mods. I'm waiting for the expansion that coming out this fall.