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Forums - Gaming Discussion - Last gen, did you survive YLOD and/or RROD?

 

Did you survive YLOD/RROD?

My PS3 died 55 17.35%
 
My PS3 is still ok 107 33.75%
 
My Xbox360 died 74 23.34%
 
My Xbox360 is still ok 28 8.83%
 
My Wii will outlive every... 53 16.72%
 
Total:317
EricHiggin on 03 November 2016
SvennoJ said:
EricHiggin said:

This is very similar to my brothers 360, and yes, its definitely our Canadian power, lol. JK.

It's a power problem, but not the power brick most likely based on what your supply light is showing. Sounds like your old brick may have had a problem, or took a surge of some sort, which could have also affected the internal power circuit inside the console as well, since the console is older and now weak. Part of the power circuit for the 360 is inside the console itself. Thats where I had to replace my capacitors. I'm not saying its definitely your caps, beacuse there are a few things it could be within the power circuit, but its most likely in the console somewhere. I've read the mosfets in the power circuit shorting out are pretty common on certain 360's.

If you have no electrical knowledge, you could try and see visually if there's a problem, which could give you an idea where the problem lies. The problem isn't always clear to see visually though, so you could be wasting your time as well. You also would need to be a little careful because capacitors hold a charge and you could get shocked. It's unlikely, but possible if you don't know what your doing. 

The mosfets will literally looks burned and the caps will either have the top "X" or "K" marking popped up like a dome instead of flat, or the bottom rubber is bulged out which usually leads to a tilted cap, or you will see some yellow fluid leaked out on top or below the cap. The cap can also be blown wide open with black "powder" all around it, but thats more rare.

If you can't visually see any of that, and don't have any electrical background, its best to take it in to a shop and have them use their equipment and knowledge to troubleshoot it. 

Thanks! I'll take it in first so they can check another power supply to confirm it's the console but what you said sounds logical. I don't have that much electrical knowlegde, enough to know how to use a multi meter and soldering iron, and to recognize a capacitor, yet mosfets don't ring a bell. That's what google is for anyway :)

If my store confirms it's my 360 I might take it apart some day when I have nothing better to do. I'm kinda hoping all my games will make it to BC then I'll get them back when I buy a Scorpio :) I opened up my old ylod ps3 before, it's a wall decoration now lol.

Edit: I found the old pic

Some assembly required :)

 

Here is a drawing of the power supply to console connector for the 360

1.Make sure power supply is NOT plugged in.

1.Make a jumper wire (insulated) and stick one bare end in the top left power enable slot, and the other bare end in the top right 5V standby slot. (make sure the bare ends are tight and touching the copper/gold tabs in the connector)

2 Make another jumper wire (insulated) and touch one bare end from one of the middle 12V tab, and touch the other end straight down to the bottom GND tab.

3. Plug in power supply.

4. It should turn green and the fan should start. (you may have to jumper all three, 12V to GND tabs, at the same time. I can't remember exactly if it was just one set at a time or all three sets at once)

As long as you just go middle 12V, straight down to GND, you'll be fine and you won't wreck the power supply. Just make sure your only touching insulated wire though, as touching any bare wire or connector tabs will give you a good jolt.

If you get a green light and fan spinning, there's a 99% chance the power supply is ok. If it goes orange or red, theres a problem with the power supply itself.

5. Make sure to DISCONNECT power supply after testing and REMOVE all jumper wires when finished.



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SvennoJ on 03 November 2016
EricHiggin said:

Here is a drawing of the power supply to console connector for the 360

1.Make sure power supply is NOT plugged in.

1.Make a jumper wire (insulated) and stick one bare end in the top left power enable slot, and the other bare end in the top right 5V standby slot. (make sure the bare ends are tight and touching the copper/gold tabs in the connector)

2 Make another jumper wire (insulated) and touch one bare end from one of the middle 12V tab, and touch the other end straight down to the bottom GND tab.

3. Plug in power supply.

4. It should turn green and the fan should start. (you may have to jumper all three, 12V to GND tabs, at the same time. I can't remember exactly if it was just one set at a time or all three sets at once)

As long as you just go middle 12V, straight down to GND, you'll be fine and you won't wreck the power supply. Just make sure your only touching insulated wire though, as touching any bare wire or connector tabs will give you a good jolt.

If you get a green light and fan spinning, there's a 99% chance the power supply is ok. If it goes orange or red, theres a problem with the power supply itself.

5. Make sure to DISCONNECT power supply after testing and REMOVE all jumper wires when finished.

My old power supply simply goes red when I close the pwr enable circuit. I guess it's faulty. The borrowed one worked fine before I got my hands on it and I assume my 360 didn't wreck it. Anyway I don't feel comfortable to short circuit it to find out :)

So it seems it's my 360 that's broken too. Perhaps my faulty power supply overloaded the circuit inside the 360 when it went out. So much for the advantage of an external power supply :/ (Or my 360 shorted and overloaded the power supply) Broken either way.



EricHiggin on 04 November 2016
SvennoJ said:
EricHiggin said:

Here is a drawing of the power supply to console connector for the 360

1.Make sure power supply is NOT plugged in.

1.Make a jumper wire (insulated) and stick one bare end in the top left power enable slot, and the other bare end in the top right 5V standby slot. (make sure the bare ends are tight and touching the copper/gold tabs in the connector)

2 Make another jumper wire (insulated) and touch one bare end from one of the middle 12V tab, and touch the other end straight down to the bottom GND tab.

3. Plug in power supply.

4. It should turn green and the fan should start. (you may have to jumper all three, 12V to GND tabs, at the same time. I can't remember exactly if it was just one set at a time or all three sets at once)

As long as you just go middle 12V, straight down to GND, you'll be fine and you won't wreck the power supply. Just make sure your only touching insulated wire though, as touching any bare wire or connector tabs will give you a good jolt.

If you get a green light and fan spinning, there's a 99% chance the power supply is ok. If it goes orange or red, theres a problem with the power supply itself.

5. Make sure to DISCONNECT power supply after testing and REMOVE all jumper wires when finished.

My old power supply simply goes red when I close the pwr enable circuit. I guess it's faulty. The borrowed one worked fine before I got my hands on it and I assume my 360 didn't wreck it. Anyway I don't feel comfortable to short circuit it to find out :)

So it seems it's my 360 that's broken too. Perhaps my faulty power supply overloaded the circuit inside the 360 when it went out. So much for the advantage of an external power supply :/ (Or my 360 shorted and overloaded the power supply) Broken either way.

Alright no problem. Based on your explanation that you can solder and use a meter I figured it might be worth a shot.

You actually wouldn't be shorting out the power supply per se, and the short amount of time you would be making the connection to verify, wouldn't really hurt anything. Keeping the jumpers on for a very long period of time would eventually do damage, but we're talking a long time.

Have you tried looking up the more specfic secondary codes ?

 

Secondary error codes

An Xbox 360 with three flashing red lights will not power on, so the error message must be obtained by an alternate method.

Obtaining secondary error codes

Power the console on so the three red lights are flashing. While holding the sync button on the front of the console, press and release the disc eject button. The lights will begin flashing in a different pattern. The number of flashing lights in this new pattern determines the first digit of the secondary error code, ranging from 0-3, with all four lights flashing indicating a 0. Continue to hold the sync button, and press and release the eject button three more times to obtain the second, third, and fourth digits of the secondary error code in the same method. Pressing the eject button a fifth time should return the flashing lights to the original Red Ring of Death pattern. You have now obtained your 4-digit secondary error code.

Corresponding error codes

To determine which error message corresponds to your secondary error code, use the error code database provided by Xbox-Experts. 

https://xbox-experts.com/errorcodes.php

 

My brothers code was (E01) 0001 - short circuit in the console/faulty psu. Some of the codes are very specific so its might help you more than just guessing. It may also help the shop you take it to depending on how familiar they are with 360's.

 



AZWification on 04 November 2016

Of course! Then again, I bought my 360 after the RROD stopped being an issue! The same can be said for my PS3 I think.



                
       ---Member of the official Squeezol Fanclub---

m0ney on 04 November 2016

I got my PS3 slim in 2011 and have had no issue.



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Deus Ex (2000) - a game that pushes the boundaries of what the video game medium is capable of to a degree unmatched to this very day.

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DannyDanger89 on 04 November 2016

My brother had 3 rrod incidents

I had 1 ylod incident on my launch BC ps3 (tried to fix it and completely killed the thing)
Pretty sad when I lost that guy

Got a slim that's been running fine since

I don't remember the yrs but I remember the ps3 lasting atleast 4 years longer than my brothers 360



Dante9 on 04 November 2016

I bought my 80Gb PS3 in 2008 and never had a problem. It's still fully operational, although it got shelved once I was done with PS3 games and got a PS4. I should donate it somewhere.



JinxRake on 04 November 2016

Started last gen on XBox 360.
First one died after ONE game. I barely managed to finish up Lost Planet and got the RRoD.
Was changed, played a few more games, second one died not two months apart from the first one, while playing Overlord.

Did not send it back for repairs this time.
Sold it to a friend that needed a unit for parts.
Bought a PSP off the money and pocketed the rest.
Got a phat PS3 soon after.
4 years later had a friend open it up and replace the thermal paste and install a chip to force the fan to run faster.
2 years ago I sold it off and it's still working to this day ... though it does sound like an airplane taking off and tends to overheat a bit in some games - the likes of Red Dead Redemption or GTA -. Still runs, mostly ok, far as I know.
Never an YLoD though.

My Slimp PS3, at the moment, is quiet as a mouse and runs like a dream. Especially if I play Mario on it XD.

I think I had a pretty decent gen.



Darwinianevolution on 04 November 2016

My Wii is a first batch Wii. Bought the first month it came out, and still works well. Ten years of Wii and I bet it can play ten more.



You know it deserves the GOTY.

Come join The 2018 Obscure Game Monthly Review Thread.

SvennoJ on 04 November 2016
EricHiggin said:
SvennoJ said:

My old power supply simply goes red when I close the pwr enable circuit. I guess it's faulty. The borrowed one worked fine before I got my hands on it and I assume my 360 didn't wreck it. Anyway I don't feel comfortable to short circuit it to find out :)

So it seems it's my 360 that's broken too. Perhaps my faulty power supply overloaded the circuit inside the 360 when it went out. So much for the advantage of an external power supply :/ (Or my 360 shorted and overloaded the power supply) Broken either way.

Alright no problem. Based on your explanation that you can solder and use a meter I figured it might be worth a shot.

You actually wouldn't be shorting out the power supply per se, and the short amount of time you would be making the connection to verify, wouldn't really hurt anything. Keeping the jumpers on for a very long period of time would eventually do damage, but we're talking a long time.

Have you tried looking up the more specfic secondary codes ?

 

Secondary error codes

An Xbox 360 with three flashing red lights will not power on, so the error message must be obtained by an alternate method.

Obtaining secondary error codes

Power the console on so the three red lights are flashing. While holding the sync button on the front of the console, press and release the disc eject button. The lights will begin flashing in a different pattern. The number of flashing lights in this new pattern determines the first digit of the secondary error code, ranging from 0-3, with all four lights flashing indicating a 0. Continue to hold the sync button, and press and release the eject button three more times to obtain the second, third, and fourth digits of the secondary error code in the same method. Pressing the eject button a fifth time should return the flashing lights to the original Red Ring of Death pattern. You have now obtained your 4-digit secondary error code.

Corresponding error codes

To determine which error message corresponds to your secondary error code, use the error code database provided by Xbox-Experts. 

https://xbox-experts.com/errorcodes.php

 

My brothers code was (E01) 0001 - short circuit in the console/faulty psu. Some of the codes are very specific so its might help you more than just guessing. It may also help the shop you take it to depending on how familiar they are with 360's.

 

Great info. My 360 gives error code 0003.

https://xbox-experts.com/errorcode/E03/0003/
The CPU is somehow not getting clean power, can be a cold solder joint under it or one of the external parts like a missing cap etc.

Known fixes:

1) Scan the mainboard and make sure that there is nothing that might short something out, like metal chipping, components, that moved out of place while reflowing, etc. - Especially in the CPU area
2) Replace MOSFETs and regulators that are known to cause it if they were blown
3) Check if the standby voltages are existent, if they are not at a certain area replace the parts in the area which are likely to be defective.
4) Reflow the CPU
5) X-Clamp replacement

That doesn't sound like the quick fix, replacing psu, I was looking for :) Which still needs to be replaced anyway.